🔗 Share this article

Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in oversized shimmering pantaloons, visible exclusively in my view. Children play in a rock pool imitating mermaids, and nearby sits a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, beside a tall stack of cushions. It represents the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s widely adored writers. I’m in Odense, on the island of Fyn in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to investigate the writer's enduring legacy in his native city 150 years after his demise, and to discover a couple of magical stories of my own.

The Exhibition: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the town's exhibition space dedicated to the writer, including his original residence. A museum representative explains that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Ugly Duckling were missing. For visitors who visit this place in search of storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of Odense city centre, diverting a primary street, provided the opportunity to reconsider how the local celebrity could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge granted the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the heart of the layout. The unique wood-paneled museum with connected spiralling spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we don’t talk about the author, but we speak in the manner of the storyteller: with wit, sarcasm and viewpoint,” says the representative. The landscape design embrace this concept: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for giants, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, a challenge realized by clever planting, manipulating elevation, scale and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

The Author's Influence

The author penned two and a half memoirs and often changed his story. The museum adopts this philosophy fully; typically the views of his companions or excerpts of written messages are shown to subtly challenge the his narrative of happenings. “The writer is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” explains the curator. The outcome is a compelling swift exploration of his personal story and work, mental approaches and best-loved tales. It is stimulating and fun, for grown-ups and children, with a bonus basement imaginary world, the pretend town, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

In the real world, the compact town of the municipality is picturesque, with cobbled streets and old wooden houses finished in vibrant hues. The writer's influence is ubiquitous: the street signals display the storyteller with his iconic characteristic hat, brass footprints give a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this dedication culminates with the yearly storytelling event, which celebrates the author’s legacy through art, performance, theatre and music.

Recently, the multi-day event had 500 shows, many were complimentary. During my time in Odense, I come across artistic acrobats, ghoulish monsters and an writer impersonator telling stories. I listen to contemporary performances and see an amazing evening show with graceful performers lowering from the city building and hanging from a crane. Future activities this year are talks, hands-on activities and, expanding the oral history further than the writer, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

All good enchanted locations require a fortress, and the island contains 123 castles and estates throughout the region

Pedaling Through History

As in much of the country, bicycles are the best way to navigate in the city and a “cycling highway” curves through the city centre. From the local hotel, I ride to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then beyond the city for a circuit around Stige Ø, a small island joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here in the evening, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, water sports or bathing.

In the city, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is derived from Andersen themes and stories. The verse the patriotic piece is featured during my meal, and owner the host recites passages, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. This is a practice commonplace in my days in the city, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it seems that storytelling is continuously on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good magical places deserve a fortress, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and manor houses around the area. Taking day trips from Odense, I explore the historic fortress, the region's best-preserved Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are open to visitors, this historic site is also the private residence of the noble family and his wife, the princess. I contemplate if she can feel a small legume through a mound of {mattresses