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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of fall. Today's Northwest Indian sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which give enhanced taste to the strata of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week starts on October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a flavorful, comforting, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and layer all components on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Heat the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin, bay and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Add the sliced onion and sauté, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. Once onions begin caramelizing, remove half to a plate and set aside (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, fry for a minute, then stir in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, stir in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, place lid and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with coriander, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, cook for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, put a spoonful of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger strips, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining grains. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the rice. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for several minutes, then remove the cover and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "achari" refers to flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the mix includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. The blend also appears in all manner of curries and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, cook for a short while, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add 50ml water to the pan, salt with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway. Add the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a little, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and serve warm with flatbreads or leavened bread.